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TigerStop Manual
TigerCrossCut |
TCC |
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TigerFence must be installed in accordance with all local, state, and federal regulations, as well as common sense safety requirements. Use only trained professionals when installing TigerFence with your existing saw to ensure a safe and proper work station that will in no way endanger the operator or any other personnel. Do not operate TigerFence without proper training. |
To install TigerFence you will need these tools (or equivalents):
power drill/driver
3/8" carbide drill bit (for boring through the saw casting)
1/2" deep socket wrench & ratchet (for tightening mounting bolts)
9/16" combination wrench to adjust rip fence squareness
5/32" hex wrench (for control stand set screw)
7/16" socket wrench (use with power driver to turn drive screw)
two sturdy C-clamps
combination square
TigerFence comes packed in a carton.
Carefully unpack it and make sure you have all the parts shown in Fig. 2.
Turn OFF all power to the saw!
Push the sliding bed forward to the point where you can lock it down, so it will not move while you are working on it.
Remove the existing crosscut guide bar.
Make sure that the top side of the sliding arm table is very smooth and clean. This is where TigerCrossCut will be attached. Nothing should prevent a tight fit.
Lay TigerCrossCut on the slider, motor end away from the saw blade and facing up.
The carriage with 1st Flipstop (Fig. 2) should be positioned closest to the saw blade.
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Slide two T-nuts into the top channel of the face of the fence beam (Fig. 3), and attach the bottom half of the control stand to the fence beam by threading bolts and washers into the T-nuts (Figs. 4, 5). At this point, hand tighten only, so that the control stand can be re-positioned later, if necessary.
Position the fence beam so the end closest to the saw blade is about 3" (76mm) from the right end of the sliding arm (Fig. 6). The motor end will hang over the edge at the other end and must be supported.
Until the fence beam is actually
secured to the slider, have an assistant support the motor end of the
machine while positioning it. If not supported, it could tip over and
fall off the slider!
TigerCrossCut is mounted to the slider using the same two holes that were used to secure the previous measuring system (Fig. 7).
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Some sliders have washers (Fig. 8) to space up the cross cut fence. You can use these when replacing it with a TigerCrossCut.
If your slider does NOT use an eccentric peg (Fig. 9) to square the fence to the saw blade, it will simply have two holes to attach the fence. TigerCrossCut is mounted using these two holes. If it uses an eccentric peg, continue below at step 12.
With TigerCrossCut still lying on the slider, insert one T-bolt (Fig. 10) into the top channel of the fence beam at each end (because the control stand is already mounted in the same channel). Line up each T-bolt with the existing holes. Thread an alignment cone (Fig. 10) on to each T-bolt and hand tighten.
Alignment cones come in two sizes: 15mm and 20mm diameter. Select the size that fits the holes in your slider.
Pivot the fence beam into working position. The alignment cones should fall right into the mounting holes. If the cones were not perfectly lined up to the holes, their tapered bottoms will funnel them into exact alignment.
With a WIDE flat screwdriver, firmly tighten the alignment cones, accessing them from under the slider through the mounting holes. The alignment cones are slotted to fit a screwdriver (Fig. 11).
TigerCrossCut is now in position,
but it is still NOT secured. Continue to provide support to prevent it
from falling off the slider!
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From underneath the slider, insert the threaded rods through the attachment holes and thread them into the alignment cones. The end of the threaded rod is a hex head, just like a set screw, so you can turn it with an allen wrench.
Finally, thread the circular handles on to the rods and firmly tighten (Fig. 12). TigerCrossCut is now secured to the slider.
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Sliders with an eccentric peg will also have two holes for attachment, one close to the saw blade and the other in the middle of the sliding arm (Fig. 13).
Because final tightening of the attachment bolts must be done AFTER squaring up the fence with the eccentric peg, leave the attachment bolts loose enough to move them slightly, if necessary. |
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Slide a T-nut (Fig. 14) into the top channel of the fence beam and line it up with the eccentric peg (Fig. 15). Thread the set screws into the T-nut and screw them in so you can slide the T-nut in the channel with some resistance.
Carefully rotate the fence beam and locate it by inserting the bolts into the attachment holes and the T-nut on to the eccentric peg. Hand tighten the circular handles on to the threaded rods passing through the attachment holes.
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Make a sample cut and check the sample for squareness. If the sample is square, you will not need to make any adjustment to the eccentric peg. Firmly tighten the connecting bolt circular handles and the eccentric peg knob.
If the sample is NOT square, adjust the eccentric and re-tighten. Pry the plastic cap off the end of the housing to access the eccentric peg adjustment (Fig. 16). Adjust the peg position, hand tighten, cut another sample, and check for squareness. Continue this procedure until the sample is square. Then firmly tighten the connecting bolt circular handles and the eccentric peg knob.
To install the extension arm, lay the end with the locking handle on the HORIZONTAL blue plate on the carriage at the saw blade end of the fence beam (Fig. 17).
There is a metal dowel in the plate to guide the extension arm into correct position. The locking handle (Fig. 18) will screw into a hole in the blue plate.
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Lay the other end into the notch in the black support plate at the motor end (Fig. 19).
Firmly tighten down the locking handle (Fig. 18).
This is the only place where the extension arm is secured to the fence beam.
NEVER try to shorten the extension arm by cutting it off!
Move the control stand to a location convenient for the saw operator, and tighten down the bolts securing it to the bottom of the fence beam (Fig. 20).
After mounting the control stand, load the controller on to it, and fasten it down securely (Fig. 21).
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Plug one end of the controller cable into the controller and the other end into the motor box (Fig. 22).
There is only one way to plug in the controller cable: the "male" end plugs into the controller, the "female" end plugs into the port on the side of the motor box.
Make sure the power switch is OFF, plug the female end of the power cord into the motor box, and fasten with the metal retainer clip (Fig. 22).
The power cord is extra long and coiled. Fasten it to the sliding arm support with cable ties at the top near the TigerCrossCut motor (Fig. 23) and at the bottom (Fig. 24), making sure that at every possible position of the slider the cord will have ample length, so it will not pull out (Fig. 25).
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See also… Running Min-Max, Making TigerStop Accurate, Scaling, Saw Kerf, Set Up Auto-Test, TigerCrossCut Calibration
TigerCrossCut is an automated replacement
crosscut fence for sliding bed table saws. TigerCrossCut…
